Cultivated for centuries in the Jabal Akhdar mountains, more than 2,000 meters above sea level and around two hours from Muscat, the Damascena Trigintipetala — or 30-petal rose — has developed a distinctive olfactory identity. Shaped by rocky soils, steep terraces and temperatures around 15°C cooler than the Omani average, it reveals "a signature that is brighter, greener and more mineral than the same varieties grown in Turkey or Bulgaria," says Francesca Bonati, Fragrance Development Manager at Amouage.

For generations, the rose has been prized primarily for its rose water. Harvested by hand from mid-March to late April on the terraced slopes of Jabal Akhdar, the blossoms are distilled over wood fires in terracotta stills using an ancestral technique that lends the rose water delicate woody and smoky nuances. The essential oil — far rarer — is recovered as a by-product of this traditional distillation process.

From tradition to a new supply chain

Omani rose essential oil stands out for its exceptional purity. Unlike the more common practice of cohobation — in which the distillate is repeatedly returned to the still to boost yields — it is obtained through a single distillation. While rose water remains a cultural icon in Oman and a sought-after product for visitors, "it has become something of a tourist attraction," notes Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer at Amouage.

Today, however, essential oil production remains extremely limited, totalling only around 50 millilitres. Amouage sees an opportunity to transform this rare artisanal product into a scalable premium ingredient supported by a viable supply chain. The potential is tangible: many of Jabal Akhdar’s agricultural terraces remain underutilized, the rose begins producing its first harvests just two to three years after planting, and the mountain region already benefits from an established irrigation network, providing a solid foundation for future expansion.

Production powered by LMR Naturals

To this end, Amouage has turned to LMR Naturals by IFF, whose expertise in natural ingredients will be instrumental. "This collaboration aligns perfectly with the vision and values of Monique Rémy, the founder of LMR," says Sabrya Meflah, President of Fine Fragrance at IFF.

Produced in minute quantities, Omani rose essential oil of incredible quality — but also prohibitively expensive. Rather than relying solely on this scarce resource, LMR has developed an approach that combines the traditional rose water with the essential oil to create a brand new ingredient. "Without resorting to petrochemicals, LMR’s teams will recover the aromatic molecules present in the rose water distillation runoff and recombine them with the rose essence to create a complete essential oil, rather than just a simple by-product," explains Bertrand de Préville, General Manager of LMR. The naturally occurring alcohols retained in the water will also contribute a fresh, petal-like facet to the Omani rose.

The project reflects LMR’s core expertise: identifying the most distinctive olfactory facets of a raw material, isolating them and enhancing them to expand the perfumer’s palette with increasingly differentiated natural ingredients. To preserve the flowers’ aromatic integrity, extraction will take place directly in Oman, minimizing exposure to heat and sunlight. The new facilities are expected to be operational in time for the 2027 harvest season, which runs from mid-March to mid-April.

Rooting Amouage’s olfactory signature in Oman

Beyond expanding the perfumer’s palette, the initiative is designed to shape a distinctive olfactory signature for Amouage. It builds on the vision of Renaud Salmon, who began anchoring the House’s creative identity in Omani raw materials with the Wadi Dawkah frankincense project launched in 2024. That frankincense with its vibrant, highly diffusive profile, naturally complements the Omani Damascena rose. "It is a highly mineral rose with a modern feel, featuring zesty notes and a rose oxide facet. It fits perfectly with the olfactory signature I am seeking," he explains.

The project also creates value beyond fragrance, helping recognize and reward the work of local growers while strengthening the region’s agricultural ecosystem.

In the longer term, Amouage and IFF hope the initiative will position Jabal Akhdar as a global benchmark for perfume-grade rose cultivation. "LMR brings its scientific expertise to this value chain by focusing on transparency, quality and giving back to local communities. We are also strengthening the local economic ecosystem. It is a virtuous initiative," says Sabrya Meflah.

The first production batches will be reserved for fragrances developed by IFF for Amouage. "It is not about claiming an ingredient only to use a trace amount in a formula," says Renaud Salmon. Instead, the ambition is to use the Omani rose in meaningful concentrations so its distinctive character can fully express itself. Much like the Omani frankincense from Wadi Dawkah, and provided future volumes allow, the Omani rose could eventually be made available more broadly — supporting the local economy, enriching the industry’s creative palette, and firmly establishing Jabal Akhdar on the global map of fragrance ingredients.

This article explores fragrance, aromatherapy, home fragrance, reed diffuser, scented candle, essential oil, perfume, natural fragrance, room scent, car fragrance, sharing the latest industry insights and offering practical references for enthusiasts.

Source: Premium Beauty News (https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/)

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