Estée Lauder and LVMH both eyeing this niche perfume, looking to sell
These noteworthy things happened in the beauty industry this week
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·Three cosmetics raw materials are planned to be banned
·199.5 million yuan, Shiseido wholly owned Opres
·The niche fragrance that Estee Lauder and LVMH are interested in at the same time will be sold
·Tripled in five years, and this brand with a valuation of 15.5 billion yuan will be sold
·Cosmex sold 3.8 billion in a single season
·Opening rose 216%, and Pelaiya/Freida raw material merchants landed on the Beijing Stock Exchange
regulatory
Three cosmetics raw materials are proposed to be banned
Recently, the Chinese People's Procuratorate issued a notice to publicly solicit opinions on nine cosmetic standards including "NTA Trisodium (Draft for Comments)". The deadline is September 7, 2026. Among them, three raw materials: NTA trisodium, methylpyrrolidone, and ethyl butylacetamidopropionate are planned to be included in the Catalogue of Prohibited Raw Materials for Cosmetics.
Specifically, the prohibition basis for NTA trisodium and methylpyrrolidone is "based on possible reproductive toxicity risks." These two raw materials have long been banned by many countries or organizations. The registered name of ethyl butyl acetamidopropionate is insect repellent, which belongs to the category of pesticide management. This revision aims to clarify that it cannot be used in cosmetics.
In addition, kojic acid is proposed to be included as a restricted component based on the possible risk of endocrine disruption, and the labeling requirements for free formaldehyde have also been greatly tightened. The three colorants CI 42090, CI 42520 and CI 19140 are proposed to be extended to permitted hair dyes and the revision of the skin allergy test method.
Overall, this adjustment of nine standards highlights the deep logic of integrating with international standards. In the short term, the revision of standards in the "Opinion Draft" will bring adjustment pressure to relevant companies, but in the long run, it will help promote the industry to develop in a more compliant direction.
brand
199.5 million yuan, Shiseido wholly owned Opres
Recently, information released by the Beijing Equity Exchange showed that 35% equity of Shiseido Liyuan Cosmetics Co., Ltd. was transferred, and the transferee was Shiseido (China) Investment Co., Ltd., with a transaction amount of 199.5 million yuan. The transferor, Beijing Liyuan, is affiliated to Beijing First Light Holdings and is a wholly state-owned enterprise. After the transaction is completed, Shiseido Group realized a 100% wholly-owned shareholding in Shiseido Liyuan.
Shiseido Liyuan is the operating entity of the Aupree brand. It was established in 1991 by Beijing Liyuan (formerly Beijing Daily Chemical Factory) and Shiseido. This is also the first joint venture company of Shiseido Group in Chinese mainland. After Aupres was launched in 1994, it rose rapidly due to its quality and service. In 2007, it ranked first in sales of similar products in the national market; in 2015, its sales reached 3 billion yuan during its peak period, and it is also called the "Three Europe" with L'Oréal Paris and Olay.
However, this former benchmark brand has continued to be under pressure in recent years. According to reports, Shiseido Liyuan's annual revenue in 2025 was 869 million yuan and a net loss of 41.337 million yuan; in 2026, the loss from January to May alone reached 53.41 million yuan, and its revenue for the same period was 234 million yuan. Online performance was also sluggish.
Opal's dilemma is essentially its failure to respond to channel changes and intergenerational switching of consumption in a timely manner. After wholly-owned shareholding, Shiseido will have greater decision-making autonomy. Whether Opal can turn losses into profits in the red sea of existing competition will be the answer.
The niche fragrance that Estee Lauder and LVMH are interested in at the same time is about to be sold
On August 11, it was revealed that Vyrao, a British high-end fragrance brand, was close to finalizing the acquirer, and the identity of the potential buyer and transaction amount have not been disclosed yet. This niche brand, which has only been established for five years, focuses on the concept of "neurofragrance" and combines neuroscience with aromatherapy. Its products include perfumes, scented candles, incense sticks, etc., and are priced at 40 to 165 pounds (approximately RMB 364 to 1,501).), and has now settled in global high-end retail channels such as Selfridges, Liberty, Saks, and Mecca.
The most eye-catching thing about Vyrao is the lineup of investors behind it. In March 2023, New Incubation Ventures (NIV), the early strategic investment arm of Estee Lauder, took the lead in acquiring a minority stake; in September 2024, L Catterton, a private equity fund of LVMH, led the second round of financing, with Manzanita Capital and Estee Lauder NIV joining in.
According to foreign media reports, Vyrao's annual revenue is about US$5 million (approximately RMB 33.72 million). It is still small, but it can attract two major luxury goods giants to make bets at the same time, indicating that the market has never valued the current scale. The differentiated concept of "nervous fragrance" just steps on the wave of integration of emotional consumption and physical health, telling a differentiated brand narrative that is different from traditional commercial perfumes.
The perfume track is becoming one of the most capital-intensive battlefields. At a time when high-end perfumes continue to heat up, the real scarce asset has never been limited to the smell itself, but also to who has the ability to tell a story that makes people willing to pay.
It has tripled in five years, and this brand with a valuation of 15.5 billion yuan will be sold
Recently, Swiss private equity firm Partners Group announced that it has entered into exclusive negotiations with EURAZEO Orrize, the major shareholder of French natural beauty brand Aroma-Zone, to acquire a majority stake in Aroma-Zone. After the transaction is completed, Orize will still retain a minority stake.
Aroma-Zone was founded in 1999. It was originally just an aromatherapy information website. With the accumulation of users, it has transformed into a cosmetics DIY raw material e-commerce company. Now it has a complete product line of finished skin care products, essential oils, dietary supplements, etc., and is the main focus.
On August 11, Cosmex released its results for the first half of 2026: consolidated revenue for the first half of the year was 147.69 trillion won (approximately 7.089 billion yuan), a year-on-year increase of 21.8%; of which revenue in the second quarter reached 794.9 billion won (approximately 3.816 billion yuan), a year-on-year increase of 27.5%, setting a new record for revenue in a single quarter since the company's establishment.
This strong growth is due to the continued recovery of the global beauty market and rising global demand for K-Beauty. According to data from the Korea Food and Drug Safety Agency, in the first half of 2026, South Korea's cosmetics exports reached US$7 billion (approximately 11 trillion won, equivalent to approximately 47.4 billion yuan), a year-on-year increase of 27.3%, setting a record high for the same period in history.
In terms of regions, Kosmack Korean legal person Q2 achieved revenue of 518.4 billion won (approximately 2.488 billion yuan), a year-on-year increase of 23%. For the first time, it achieved revenue in a single quarter exceeding 500 billion won, setting a record high. China legal persons continue to drive performance by deepening core categories and multi-channel layouts. Q2 achieved revenue of 197.4 billion won (approximately 948 million yuan), a year-on-year increase of 33%.
Behind the rapid growth in performance is Cosmes 'deep accumulation in global R & D and manufacturing over the years. K-Beauty's popularity remains unabated, and Kosmite's globalization journey has not stopped.
IPO
The opening price rose 216%, and Pelaiya/Freida raw material merchants landed on the Beijing Stock Exchange
On August 11, Jiakai Biotech was officially listed on the Beijing Stock Exchange, opening at 60.95 yuan/share, up 216.46% from the issue price of 19.26 yuan, and its market value once exceeded 2.9 billion yuan. Founded in 2010, Jiakai Biotech is a high-tech enterprise specializing in the research and development, production and sales of cosmetic efficacy raw materials. Its customers cover Pelaiya, Freida, Shuiyang Co., Ltd., Ou Shiman, Huaxi Biotech, Xiangyi Materia Medica, Pequalin, Lin Qingxuan, Kesmeisi, Giant Bio, Nature Hall and other well-known brands and companies.
Since 2020 (before landing on the Beijing Stock Exchange), Jiakai Biotech has completed 4 rounds of financing, including 3 rounds of equity investment. In addition to well-known institutions such as Dongwu Venture Capital, Wenshi Capital, and Northern Lights Venture Capital, the investors also include Shuiyang Shares, Huaxi Biotech and other industrial capital.
In terms of performance, from 2023 to 2025, Jiakai Biotech's revenue increased from 218 million yuan to 263 million yuan, and its net profit increased from 47.5192 million yuan to 66.2693 million yuan. The company expects revenue in the first half of 2026 to be 144 million to 155 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 18.04% to 26.65%.
As Jiakai Biotech, Weiqi Technology and other companies have successively landed on the Beijing Stock Exchange and received ultra-high multiple subscriptions, the market uses real money to show that they have the ability to innovate independently, have a stable foundation for major customers, and can open up an international space. Effective raw material suppliers are moving from "behind the scenes" to "in front of the stage", becoming core assets that cannot be ignored in the beauty industry chain.
This article explores Aromatherapy, Scent, Perfume, Essential Oil, Non-burning Aromatherapy, Aromatherapy Candle, Vine Incense, Home Scent, Natural Aromatherapy, Diffuser, sharing the latest industry insights and offering practical references for enthusiasts.
Looking for premium home fragrance? Explore curated aromatherapy candles, reed diffusers and natural essential oil blends at CeresMall — www.CeresMall.com.
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