Given shifting fortunes in the handbag category, and lingering weakness, this linchpin floor in department stores “can no longer simply be a collection of the most prestigious logos.”

So says Sara Wong, director of accessories at Selfridges, and also of its Reselfridges business. Here, she elaborates on the new rules of the handbag game.

WWD: Overall, how would you describe the health of the handbag category over the past year or so?

Sara Wong: The handbag category remains fundamentally important to luxury, but I would describe the market as more selective and fragmented than it was a few years ago. We are seeing less of the broad-based demand that allowed almost any major bag launch from a luxury maison to generate significant momentum.

You May Also Like

The customer has not stopped buying handbags, but the purchase has become more considered. There is greater scrutiny around price, design longevity, craftsmanship, functionality and brand relevance. At the same time, we are seeing spend migrate into other accessory categories — particularly belts, eyewear, jewelry and small leather goods, where the entry price can be lower and the product can feel more immediate or expressive.

So I would not call it handbag fatigue in the sense that consumers are turning their backs on bags. I would call it fatigue with repetition: another iteration of an established silhouette or logo is no longer enough to create urgency.

WWD: In terms of brands, are luxury names still preeminent in handbags, or are there new players grabbing floor space and market share?

S.W.: The major luxury maisons still dominate the category in terms of brand recognition, desirability and global reach. However, there is considerably more room today for contemporary luxury, independent labels, and direct-to-consumer brands to establish credibility in handbags.

We see customers increasingly seem comfortable mixing high-low products. A highly recognizable luxury bag may be worn alongside jewelry or accessories from a less established brand, and vice versa. That makes the accessory customer less brand-loyal at the category level.

Curation, novelty and a distinctive point of view are becoming as important as heritage.

WWD: Givenchy recently brought on board Marco De Vincenzo for leather goods, and Saint Laurent nabbed handbag wiz Johnny Coca. What do these hires signal to you?

S.W.: I see these appointments as a clear signal that brands understand the need to reenergize their accessory propositions, particularly handbags.

The creative director increasingly has to think about the handbag as a cultural and commercial object, not simply as an extension of the ready-to-wear collection. A new creative voice can reset the codes of a house, introduce new proportions and construction, and most importantly give customers a reason to look at that brand again.

The next wave of successful launches will likely have a stronger sense of identity, functionality and recognizability, rather than relying purely on logo or heritage.

WWD: What are reasons underlying any softness in handbags?

S.W.: First, price inflation has changed the psychology of the purchase. At the highest levels, a handbag can represent a very significant discretionary spend, and customers are asking themselves whether the product feels sufficiently distinctive to justify that investment.

Second, there has been considerable silhouette repetition. Consumers have been exposed to a very large number of new icons, many of which are not necessarily differentiated enough from what came before.

Third, the luxury customer has more choices. Spending is being distributed across travel, experiences, jewelry, watches, beauty and other fashion categories.

Finally, the consumer is simply more discerning. The handbag has to earn its place in the wardrobe. It needs to be desirable, functional, recognizable and capable of feeling relevant beyond one season.

WWD: How do you see market share and consumer behavior shifting regarding accessories?

S.W.: We are moving from a handbag-centric accessories model to a more diversified accessories wardrobe.

Customers are building collections rather than necessarily buying one major handbag as the defining luxury purchase. Jewelry, belts, eyewear, small leather goods, charms and other personal accessories can all play a role in expressing identity.

From a retail perspective, I think this means the opportunity is increasingly about selling the accessory ecosystem rather than the individual handbag. Cross-category merchandising and styling become much more important. At Selfridges, we are always keeping top of mind about “creating worlds” for our customers as they’re perusing through the store.

WWD: What are your expectations for the second half of 2026?

S.W.: I would expect the second half of 2026 to be selectively positive rather than a broad-based handbag rebound. The strongest performance should come from brands and products that can create genuine newness and a compelling reason to engage.

We should see greater emphasis on launches with a strong creative story, limited editions, personalization, exclusive colorways and retail activations that make the product feel culturally relevant rather than simply commercially pushed.

Communication will also become more important. Brands need to move beyond traditional product-led handbag advertising and demonstrate how the bag fits into a broader lifestyle and wardrobe. The opportunity is to rebuild desire through storytelling, community and experience.

We will remain disciplined on inventory while giving more space and visibility to genuine newness. The category still has enormous potential, but the era of assuming that a major logo plus a new silhouette automatically creates demand is behind us.

This article explores fragrance, aromatherapy, home fragrance, reed diffuser, scented candle, essential oil, perfume, natural fragrance, room scent, car fragrance, sharing the latest industry insights and offering practical references for enthusiasts.

Source: WWD Beauty - Fragrance (https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/)

This article is reproduced from the original source for information sharing only. If it infringes any copyright, please contact us and we will remove it promptly.

© 2026 CeresMall | www.CeresMall.com