While London Fashion Week gears up for an exciting season with the return of McQueen and Mulberry by Christopher Kane, it’ll be down one of its buzziest designers, Conner Ives.

Well, the U.K.’s loss is the U.S.’ gain as the native New Yorker flew “Across the Pond” for the first time to present his collection of the same name.

A Central Saint Martins alumnus, Ives has said most people just assume he’s British and that adopted heritage was most evident in his collaboration with the historic Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes. It yielded two banker-type suits (a new category for Ives) that would’ve blended in at Midtown’s power-lunch hot spot The Grill if it weren’t for their disheveled styling, as if thrown-on in haste after an afternoon tryst.

Collars popped, pants tucked into socks, a tie askew, they exemplified Ives’ call to action this season splashed across what’s sure to be his next sold-out graphic T-shirt: “Bring back shame.”

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It’s ironic because Ives has none, but what he does have in spades is “flamboyance,” the word he used over and over to describe his most “American” trait.

In a post-show interview, Ives said returning home forced him to examine the makeup of American style. Embellished denim and pleated skirt sets with equestrian prints were obviously a tip of the cowboy hat to the West, while the closer, an ethereal drop-waist chiffon gown dyed the same shade of green as oxidized copper, could’ve been a tribute to Lady Liberty.

But there was a melting-pot of references, from flamenco fringe to chinoiserie florals, all thrown together without shame. “My whole feeling is everyone is invited to the party and I think it’s a very American thing as well,” Ives said.

And who wouldn’t want to party with the likes of Iris Law in a red matador catsuit or Lila Moss in a take on the fur-trimmed Art Deco robe that Troye Sivan wore recently in his “She’s the Best” music video.

Because no matter where she is, as Sivan sings, the Conner Ives girl is “that girl.” She’s vivacious, worldly and her man clearly has a hard time keeping up.

Hopefully, we’ll be seeing more of him, both Ives and the man he’s beginning to dress, at NYFW. Asked if he’s planting a flag here, Ives responded: “I always say to people, ‘tomorrow is never promised,’ so you never really know what it’s gonna bring. But I love being here.” We love it too.

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Source: WWD Beauty - Fragrance (https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/)

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